(This post has now been sitting in draft form for several months. I read that Wynton Marsalis will be playing tomorrow in Portland, so I think I'll finally get around to publishing).
The other day a friend of mine sent me an
article about the owner of a jazz club and restaurant where I used to work. My friend still works there. Reading the article brought me back to an amazing time in my life. I had worked in about 7 restaurant kitchens before I landed a job at the Dakota. Previously, I had enjoyed the fast pace of the work and had developed social connections after work at the bar, but the Dakota was just different. While it wasn't without it's own version of raving lunatics, the core group of workers had a tremendous amount of heart and it just felt like a family to me from the beginning. The food that we cooked was exciting and different. Since we only used local ingredients, I remember that the staple fish was "walleye" (we did salmon and trout too), but the chef always came up with a way to cook it that was unique. This was also the first kitchen I worked in that had more girl cooks than boy cooks. When all 4 of us women were on the line, the wait staff affectionately called us the "bitch line" and celebrated the fact that it would probably be a calm night.
To top it off, the music was just amazing. I was never really into jazz before, but when I first heard the sounds of McCoy-Tyner, Ahmad Jamal, Betty Carter, Freddie Hubbard, Max Roach, Marcus Roberts, Branford Marsalis, and so many others emanating into the kitchen, I was instantly hooked. One night my trumpet-playing cook friend got to play back and forth with Wynton Marsalis on his trumpet when he showed up late after a show (like an idiot, I had already gone home). There's something so classy, yet edgy and frenzied about a lot of live jazz. As a young person who at the time liked to live life on the edge, but was looking for something with more meaning and artistry, this music and this job were magical.
But no job is the perfect place. Even though most of the big name acts played there at a discount because they liked the owner and the atmosphere so much, there were constant money problems. I was there the night that the IRS came in and shut the place down. It was creepy. When business started back up a few months later, I was working somewhere else, but couldn't resist returning to the Dakota. The feeling was a little different after the turmoil of the closing, but most of us were glad to go back. Still, I only worked there for a couple more months before deciding to relocate back west. (Earlier in the year I had quit drinking and didn't think I could make it through a Minnesota winter without "going back on the sauce" as one of my dear Dakota friends would have said. I have never regretted this decision because I don't think I would be living this life if I had not, but it was very hard to leave behind a place where I had so many good memories).
Even after moving west to Oregon, I stayed connected to my Dakota friends. A few of them moved to Portland for awhile before moving on to other things. The last time we were in the Twin Cities (2 years ago), we had lunch at the Dakota in its new location and I got to see Lowell (legendary quirky owner), one of my waiter friends, and one of the managers from long ago. I can tell that the magic is still there, but have heard that it has also changed quite a bit. It probably wouldn't feel quite so homey to me now, but heck, I'm not 26 anymore either. For that particular time in my life, the Dakota was the perfect place to feel accepted and accomplished, and to be part of something incredible on certain nights each week.